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Variations
The following is a fascinating post from Matt Dimeo
(
matt.dimeo@conexant.com
).
NOTE: New England TechCord is stronger than the BW Spectra
that Matt sent to Chris. --Karl
First some background: some months back there was a rec.climbing
discussion about Webolettes and their application. At the time,
I brought up the possibility of making your own out of spectra
cord with loops tied in the ends. This test was meant to check
the feasibility of that.
I figured that if I could tie a spectra-cord "webolette" with strength
comparable to a 7mm nylon cordelette, I'd do so, preferring cord
to webbing for self-rescue reasons.
As it turns out (see results below), it's not even close. Nylon
cord is stronger than I had remembered, for one thing, and having
a single strand of cord cuts the strength nearly in half over a loop.
I actually figured that out before I sent the samples off, but after
I had already bought and cut the cord. This probably would have
been obvious to many of you.
I sent three samples each of the following configurations, and
got these results:
Configuration #1: spectra cord loop, tied with triple fisherman's
(i.e. a normal cordellete)
Samples all broke @pin, at 3717, 3467, and 4034 lbf.
Configuration #2: 7mm Nylon cord loop tied with double fisherman's
(cordelette)
Samples all broke @pin, at 3286, 3605, and 3299 lbf.
Configuration #3: spectra cord with figure eights tied at each end.
Backup knots were used, but made no difference (they didn't come
tight). This is the webolette configuration.
Samples all broke @knot, at 1779, 1793, 1884 lbf.
Configuration #4: As #3, but with a triple-fisherman loop in each
end (see below).
Broke at knot, at 1745, 1725, 1709 lbf.
Conclusions and observations:
1. nylon cordelletes didn't break much weaker than spectra, so if
you use spectra cordelletes because you think they're stronger, you
might be wasting your money.
2. The triple fisherman loop I sort-of invented didn't break any
stronger than the figure eights. Actually a little weaker.
all cord used was new. The spectra was 5.5mm blue water. The
nylon was 7mm, don't know the manufacturor. The test rig used 10mm
pins at 4"/minute.
Send email if you have any questions about the above.
Claimer and Disclaimer:
Any mistakes above are mine, not Chris's, and not Black Diamond's.
If you make safety decisions based on any of the above data, and
your head pops off as a result, it's your own damn fault.
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