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more Yosemite...
Sunnyside Bench 5.0 (NOT!)

After a mellow day of climbing and an evening spent sipping the frothy, some memories get...hazy. Rumor has it that the gang attempted the first Teva
ascent of the Curry Village bathroom boulder. The wiser and more sober amongst us would certainly scoff at such silliness.

Musta been the school kids. Ahhh, the overactive imagination of the would-be-young.

. . .
Easing into Curry Village cafeteria early Sunday morning, Christian and Karl plan a mellow day for Christian's first lead. Karl scans the guidebook and sees a promising arrow titled, "Sunnyside Bench Regular Route 5.0". After some discussion, the day is set and the dynamic duo are off. Pam, Brian, Liz, Bill, Lisa head off to their YMS classes. Chris and Pat decide to relax and play Valley tourist.

The morning drifts leisurely by in the shade of Sunnyside Bench gully. The roar and mist of the falls on this hot June day are relaxing as Christian happily plunks in gear and moves on up. One pitch. "Hey, this is fun!". Two pitches. "I really like leading!". Three pitches.

"Uh-oh". "What?"
"I'm stuck. There's nowhere to go!"

Puzzled, Karl climbs up to the hanging belay and blinks as he sees the vertical jungle. The sheer granite walls of the gully are as smooth as the Curry Village bathroom boulder. Water sheets down over slime, mud and moss. Karl looks at Christian. "This ain't no 5.0!" Christian nods and shrugs.

Looking up, Karl sees the top of the climb 60 feet away. "No problem! let's give it a try. It can't be that hard--it's only a 5.0". Karl stems up into the jungle and gradually wonders how Christian managed to get this far. Fist jams in mud? Moss stems? Shrubbery mantles? Dig-your-own holds?

Karl slips and falls onto a tri-cam set in a muddy crack. Nobody moves. "You're still on belay!" Realizing things are getting SERIOUS, Karl tries again and carefully, gingerly finds his way out of the gully to a welcoming tree.


If you see this, you're OFF-ROUTE!
Tired after being tortured for over an hour in his hanging belay, Christian is unable to follow and Karl resorts to a Tibloc Z-pulley for an assist. After making it to the belay, the two sit perfectly still and speechless. "Ah yes, well...best be going"

As they come out of the trees and look down the sheer cliff to the stables, Christian and Karl are horrified to see a six-inch path at the very edge of the cliff. The path is covered with pea gravel and leaf litter. One slip and it's bye-bye.

"Well, I suppose we could use a running belay..."

Much later, Karl picks up the guidebook and turns to the offending page that started the whole odyssey. Shaking his head, he flips the page and by chance sees another topo. The topo shows the Sunnyside Bench route leaving the gully very early on.

As Kevin, the YMS guide, said to Pam, "That route's pretty tricky. Sure hope they don't get off route--the gully gets REALLY nasty."

more Yosemite...