Mon Sep 11

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Karl Lew

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Rappel Backup (Normal)

When rappelling, I frequently use a Bachman knot (B) as a backup for my Trango Jaws rappel/belay device, especially if I'm planning stops for photos, etc. I also use this setup to climb self-belayed on short stretches--the Bachman slides easily up/down when held by the carabiner, and locks when the cord is weighted. One consideration of using a Bachman is that pressure on the biner will unlock the knot, even if the knot is weighted. This is good if I want to continue rappelling after a stop; it is bad if I'm falling. For this and other reasons, I prefer to extend the Bachman away from my body. To do so, I use 7' of 6mm Perlon tied into a loop with a double fisherman's knot.

NOTES: The inset shows how to start a Bachman--I just add more loops as required. For single rope rappel, I rig the Trango Jaws belay device with the V-notch on the brake hand side (J), for double rope rappel, I use the other side of the Jaws because of the greater friction created by two ropes. Lastly, I secure the cord to my belay loop (L) with a self-locking biner.

Posted...

    Avajane: Nothing
    Scott: Nothing what?
    Karl: What nothing?
    Avajane: Sorry guys...I use "Nothing" - the same backup you've always used, Scott.
    Scott (to Karl): (that's why he's a dad several times over)
 

 

WARNING: CLIMBING IS INHERENTLY DANGEROUS. THE OPINIONS AND DESIGNS PRESENTED HERE ARE MY OWN AND DO NOT CONSTITUTE A RECOMMENDATION OF OR ENDORSEMENT FOR ANY PARTICULAR OR GENERAL USE. IF YOU CHOOSE TO USE ANY DEVICE OR PROCEDURE PRESENTED HERE, YOU DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK.