Mon Sep 11
Knots
Girth Hitch
Clove Hitch
Bowline
Dogvine
Rap Backups
F8 Extra
Twist-Rack
Mariner's
copyright 1999 ©
all rights reserved
Karl Lew
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www.climerware.com
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  Normal  
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Heavy
 
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Racking
 
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Rappel Backup (Normal)
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When rappelling,
I frequently use a Bachman knot (B) as a backup for my Trango Jaws
rappel/belay device, especially if I'm planning stops for photos, etc.
I also use this setup to climb self-belayed on short stretches--the Bachman slides easily up/down
when held by the carabiner, and locks when the cord is weighted.
One consideration of using a Bachman is that pressure on the biner will unlock the knot, even if
the knot is weighted. This is good if I want to continue rappelling after a stop; it is bad if
I'm falling. For this and other reasons, I prefer to extend the Bachman away from my body.
To do so, I use 7' of 6mm Perlon tied into a loop with a double fisherman's knot.
NOTES: The inset shows how to start a Bachman--I just add more loops as required.
For single rope rappel, I rig the Trango Jaws belay device
with the V-notch on the brake hand side (J), for
double rope rappel, I use the other side of the Jaws because of the greater friction created
by two ropes. Lastly, I secure the cord to my belay loop (L) with a self-locking biner.
Posted...
Avajane: Nothing
Scott: Nothing what?
Karl: What nothing?
Avajane: Sorry guys...I use "Nothing" - the same backup you've always used, Scott.
Scott (to Karl): (that's why he's a dad several times over)
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WARNING: CLIMBING IS INHERENTLY DANGEROUS. THE OPINIONS AND DESIGNS
PRESENTED HERE ARE MY OWN AND DO NOT CONSTITUTE A RECOMMENDATION
OF OR ENDORSEMENT FOR ANY PARTICULAR OR GENERAL USE. IF YOU CHOOSE
TO USE ANY DEVICE OR PROCEDURE PRESENTED HERE, YOU DO SO AT YOUR
OWN RISK.
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