Mon Sep 11

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Karl Lew

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  Friday     Saturday     Sunday    

Bold designs

After warming up on a runout 5.9 on Friday, Gil pronounces himself READY for A Little Nukey on Power Dome. "Yup, got my lead head."
Early Saturday, Jim and Gil meet up with Dave and Ellen at Power Dome. Jim has a blast on his second day of leading and gamely leads some of the pitches on this awesome climb.
Having heard Gil mutter all the way up his 5.9 test piece ("damn, lookin' at a grounder here!"), Karl has second thoughts about Power Dome and joins Geoff, Brian and Christian at Trapper Dome.
At Trapper Dome, Geoff and Brian blast their way up Dingo, a 5.8 three pitch climb. Left alone for a while, Karl decides to solo lead the first 5.7 pitch. Christian returns to see Karl cursing at his double clove hitches. Later, after following Christian on his first 5.7 lead (exposure!), Karl accidentally drops a Rockcentric #8. It falls without a sound. Eerie.

Innocently, Geoff waits for Karl at the bottom of the last pitch, the 5.8 crux pitch of Dingo. "Gonna do this in your approach shoes?" Karl frowns and shrugs ("well, it's just a 5.8"). Geoff grins. Halfway up the pitch, Karl realizes that the topo only showed three bolts, one of which was at the belay. His approach shoes are oozing off the rounded chicken heads--just like his slings. Oh my.

Brian finds the dropped Rockcentric and returns it to Karl, who promptly gives it to Geoff. "Gee, Geoff...I'm 99% sure that it's OK." For Geoff, this is the beginning of a MAJOR booty week. A #2 Camalot, three tri-cams and a biner soon find their way onto Geoff's rack.
The afternoon yields to short leads and TRs. Here Geoff peers around a 5.10a crux. Brian and Christian take turns leading face climbs. Karl volunteers to clip one bolt of a 5.11 and then calls it a day, exhausted.


photos J. Sauer, C. Knuetter, K. Lew