Mon Sep 11

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Karl Lew

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Rappel Backup (Heavy)

My usual Bachman rappel backup doesn't lock well if I'm rapping heavy. In these situations, I prefer a brake hand autoblock knot (A) clipped into a leg loop (L). Placing the backup knot on the braking hand side amplifies the locking power of my rappel device (J). However, I have to keep the backup knot away from the belay device. If the backup knot contacts the rappel device, it can become unlocked. This might happen if I flip upside down while rappelling. If I'm worried about this, I extend the belay device away from my harness with a short sling (H).

NOTES: I use the same 7' of 6mm Perlon as usual, but tie a figure eight knot (8) to shorten it for the autoblock. I use an autoblock here instead of a Bachman, because it's just too easy to weight the Bachman biner accidentally.

WARNING: CLIMBING IS INHERENTLY DANGEROUS. THE OPINIONS AND DESIGNS PRESENTED HERE ARE MY OWN AND DO NOT CONSTITUTE A RECOMMENDATION OF OR ENDORSEMENT FOR ANY PARTICULAR OR GENERAL USE. IF YOU CHOOSE TO USE ANY DEVICE OR PROCEDURE PRESENTED HERE, YOU DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK.